The Art of Suiting with Western Affair
Olivia Pudelko, designer and artist behind the London-based label, WESTERNAFFAIR, discusses sustainability, using found materials, and the power of upcycled ties.
INTERVIEW Alexa van Abbema
DESIGN Olivia Pudelko
PHOTOGRAPHY Lera Polinova
SECOND PHOTOGRAPHER Patrick Kronenberger
MAKEUP Ginevra Calie & Aura Photo Agency
FASHION Giulia Revolo
MODEL Chae Son
STYLING ASSISTANT Rebecca Teldja
Let’s begin the interview with talking about the materials you use—found objects like rugs, sheepskins from the Polish-Slovakian mountains, and deadstock bridal heels. What do you call your practice?
"Opportunistic" can be a word to describe how I come to produce some of my designs. I love the nature of this process because it's so organic, I find something fascinating outside of the fashion world and bring it in. I studied art instead of fashion, so I was always encouraged to find materials everywhere; you know, not just in art supply stores. I don’t want to be another brand that is producing from the same tired leather the same tired fabrics.
What is the story behind this new collection?
The first mens tie heels was made in 2017, so this is how long it took to go into production. I had to find the right manufacturer who has great values and doesn't compromise on quality. They are based in Poland, and since June I have moved here, too. I must be close to the production at this stage. The numbers of shoes in each line are minimal so the work is constant; I’m continuously developing new samples.
Can you tell me more about the reasoning behind the materials you chose for this collection and the idea behind drawing from office attire? The silhouettes are tailored and practical but also superfluous and glamorous, in a way.
Well, it’s about giving power from men to women. You have both genders working in the same workplace both wearing suits, yet is it only normalized that the male wears a tie? For me, it's a symbol of power and capability—that’s why I took it and put it on a classic heel. Anything a man can do a woman can do, and she will do it in heels.
Do you spend a lot of time in the mountains?
No, I wish. I only visited a handful of times, and every time it was to buy the sheepskins. Although, last time, I did find some free time to go up one of the mountains and I used a ski lift, and the guy managing it didn’t close the barrier, so I was like up in the air trying to close the damn thing myself!
Working with used materials, you mentioned that there is already an “abundance of materials” and that sustainability informs your work. Is less more?
100%. When it comes to buying anything, whether it’s home stuff, food or clothing. It's our responsibility to do research and not be wasteful. I think advertising needs to be reformed in a way. Other companies aren't so easy to reuse. And the majority comes in plastic packaging. But, with clothing, you buy it and you use it—or if you don’t, you can re-sell it or donate.
