Speaking with: Anna Dello Russo

The legendary fashion icon tells Novembre about auctioning off the majority of her massive collection of high fashion shoes and clothes, and her current quest for more holistic and sustainable ways of approaching the fashion industry.

INTERVIEW Caroline Krager
All images from www.instagram.com/annadellorusso

In the 90s, fashion was extremely corporate and institutionalized,

says Anna Dello Russo to Novembre.

Now everything's changed. It's like a tsunami of chaos from all angles with lots of freedom to be yourself, to express yourself through your style, and a militant-like behavior fighting for sustainability, which I love.

Loud rain is drumming endlessly on the roof of my London flat while I chat with this fashion icon on the phone. Her immediate surroundings are altogether different to mine; a warm, melting sunset marks the crescendo to a crisp, clear day in Italy's Puglia-district, where Dello Russo is lucky enough to have a house.

You should've been here,

she says in her charmingly distinct Italian accent,

It's almost impossible to describe how beautiful it is.

Anna Dello Russo is one of those figures in fashion who almost doesn't need an introduction. But just for the record: during the last 25 years of attending fashion weeks and glamorous parties, her exceptionally maximalist and extra style has inspired many a designer, lead to 1,7 million Instagram- followers and collaborations with - amongst others - H&M. Together with the legendary Franca Sozzani, who was at the helm of Vogue Italia for 30 years until her death in 2016, she was, as the fashion editor, instrumental in creating and shaping an envelope-pushing, modern approach to fashion editorials. She currently holds the position of fashion editor-at-large at Vogue Japan.

Rumors in the industry long said that she housed more than 4000 pairs of shoes - undoubtedly giving Carrie Bradshaw a good old run for her money - and a vast number of expensive designer garments, in a separate apartment to the one she lived in Milan. Although she quietly confirms that this was, in fact, previously the case, much has changed in Dello Russo's life since then.

Auctioning off all her clothes

Two years ago, I had a great epiphany. I understood that to continue on in the industry, I love so much I had to consume fashion in a very different way. Collecting like I used to do has gone out of style, and I wanted to make space for other experiences. It's a little bit like Tuthankhamon with all his treasures in the tomb; Where is all this stuff going? What's the purpose?

Back in the days, I famously said that «I'm only going to wear a look once,» but that's unacceptable now. I wanted to change. Now I can wear the same look ten times!

Early 2018 she launched her book AdR: Beyond Fashion, and simultaneously decided to auction off most of her massive collection of clothes and shoes through Christie's. Some of her precious items were also sold through an exclusive collaboration with Net-a-Porter. The money she made was donated to what she calls «a good cause»; The next generation of young movers and shakers in fashion.

I suddenly felt the urge to take a step back, be less in the spotlight, more sort of in the corner, and start sharing my experience with the young. I'm incredibly grateful for my long career and wanted to give something back.

As part of this new inclination to be generous with her intellectual and experiential wealth, Dello Russo has become the ambassador for Instituto Marangoni, which recently appeared amongst the highest- ranked in Business of Fashion's 2019 "The best fashion schools in the world."

We've started something called Playground, which is a contest where the fashion students are given an assignment and encouraged to play together, to be open to use all kinds of technology or tools and to implement sustainability and diversity.

And everything is done in teams because otherwise, you'll end up with a me, me, me mentality. Fashion is already way too much about ego, and, in my opinion, ego kills creativity when it becomes this endless game of referencing your own work. Playground is an attempt to fight against this and encourage creativity, she says passionately.

All of a sudden, Dello Russo cries out loudly and proceeds to yell at someone - or rather something - in speedy Italian. She explains that one of her cats just came storming towards her with a big, dead bird. "They're always hunting and presenting me with these sorts of gifts! Like, I got this for you mummy!" she says partly in a frustrated manner but also full of light amusement. She takes a deep breath, says "Allora" and continues:

Another important thing is my new mantra, «editing, editing, editing.» Editing myself, my mind, my time, my presence, my looks. I think it's crucial.

Right now, I'm in the middle of the countryside, and I can still talk to you, be online, be connected with my collaborators. We're so lucky to have the opportunity to live life differently through the digital revolution. Without this massive change, I wouldn't have been able to work for Vogue Japan for the last 12 years. It's made the world so small and approachable.

Year 2020 = changey, changey

In Dello Russo's opinion, there are more pros than cons in terms of social media.

For one thing, it means that I don't have to go everywhere all the time. I could observe Kim Jones's beautiful Dior-show in Miami, where they presented the collaboration with Stüssy, through Instagram right when it happened, and I could know who else was there.

I used to spend all my time working, but now I care much more about connecting with nature. It's my greatest inspiration. Now winter is slowly creeping in, the color palette is changing, you see the transformation and understand that nothing is permanent. Nature tells you that it's essential to be in the moment, to meditate, to think and, also, that you don't have to look incredible all the time. It teaches acceptance.

Our conversation has gone full circle, through 4000 pairs of shoes, a naughty little Italian cat, a fashion playground, and Instagram, to her current, more holistic, sustainable way of life. As we wrap up, the sun has, according to her, crept behind the earth-toned hills on the horizon.

My mother calls 2020 "Changey, changey"

says Dello Russo, followed by a short laugh.

It feels like it's going to be a significant change, but we'll see! I will continue working with my fantastic team at Vogue Japan, collaborate with Marangoni, and do some consulting for brands as well. I only plan my life three months ahead, so that I can enjoy the present time as much as possible.

But Mamma mia, I can't believe it's a new decade!