AVNIER X Salomon Advanced x Novembre

PHOTOGRAPHY Maxime Guyon
SET DESIGN Sébastien Michelini

Novembre Bureau brings a special team of creatives to showcase the new Salomon S/Lab XT-5 model, designed in collaboration with the Swiss label AVNIER.

Personal interview of Sébastien Strappazzon and Orelsan, the two heads of AVNIER.

https://avnier.com/pages/avnier-x-salomon

What do you think of today’s tendency towards anybody starting a clothing label?

Orelsan: it’s great to be creative on any level. When we started the label, a lot of people told us, « don’t do it, there are too many clothing brands already ». I think they were right, but we didn’t care.

Are we mostly covering the same ground or are we making actual progress?

Orelsan: I think a little bit of both. This is why our brand is called «Avnier» it s a mix between « avant » and « dernier » with means before and latest. We want to move forward but keep looking at the past.

Sebastien Strappazzon: Generally speaking, everything has been done, but the combination of genres, and attention to detail remain forever attractive. Besides, mankind is nostalgic, which is probably why fashion is cyclical. Today, when you look at the evolution of technology and sustainability, there is so much to do.

What are remarkable pieces of clothing that you remember from your childhood?

Orelsan: As a kid, I used to love sweaters with characters on them, like the brands poivre blanc or Waikiki. Then when I was 10, I was a big fan of basketball, so the Chicago bulls warm-up suits, anything with NBA team colors… Adidas Torsion. Air Max. Everything Jordan.

Sebastien Strappazzon: There was nothing remarkable in the clothes that I wore through to my teenage years. What struck me the most though, was a t-shirt from a BMX brand called UGP (UNDERGROUND PRODUCTS), circa 1994 when I was 14.

How does the validation of your garments and therefore style or sentiments resonate to you today? Does it feed your practice in general?

Orelsan: I think it resonates. I don’t have a specific style, it depends on the places I go. I like to think about how my outfit impact others but I might not always seek validation. And sometimes I just dress how I feel, not paying attention others. It really depends on the mood.

What do you think people find in your products? What kinds of feelings or ideas?

Orelsan: I think they feel that they are part of something. If someone sees someone else wearing Avnier, they usually talk to each other.

How do you conceive the structure of a collection? Is it comparable to the creation of a music album?

Orelsan: When building the collection, I like to compare looks or pieces to tracks in what they bring on the table.

What are the challenges and the skills involved in collaborating with others in general?

Orelsan: Listening. Making a point, making sure people understand. Personally, as I like to stay in my head, communication is the most exhausting part.

Sebastien Strappazzon: The challenge is to adapt. I might struggle to communicate my ideas verbally. I need to illustrate them. Naturally, collaborations are often a translation of our various languages.

What’s a relevant example of a successful collaboration in music? What about the same in fashion?

Orelsan: An example that I love is Michael Jackson and Quincy Jones. When you hear the demos Michael made, you hear that it’s pure genius, but when you hear what Quincy adds to it, you hear something legendary. In the case of Avnier, I like to see our collaboration with St James as a perfect association, because we used their savoir-faire and applied it to our French-Swiss sense of modern design. And people really understood it.

Sebastien Strappazzon: As far as fashion goes, I think successful collaborations are the ones which create a sense of surprise. And of course, it has to be genuine.

Basique. Simple. Do you view your work as such?

Orelsan: Not at all. This is more a goal than a reality. I tend to complicate everything, it’s one of my biggest flaw. Even the song Basique is not that simple.

Avnier. Is there an notion of hope that informs or inspires you, in this time of division and unease? Is that what the name of the brand is about?

Orelsan: My main hope is for people to get more educated and aware of what happens in the world. That they become more curious, and want to know how things are made.

Sebastien Strappazzon: We’re part of a generation that is very actively making changes for the better, instead of just sitting back. Avnier is indeed inspired by the past, yet powered by the future

How does the future look?

Orelsan: I don’t know, my girlfriend reads all this collapsology books and it doesn’t look so good. But I like to be optimistic.

Sebastien Strappazzon: It is indeed a weird and gloomy time, but I also look on the bright side. I believe we’re living in the best time for creativity, because it’s more accessible than it’s ever been.

Do you think today’s younger generation is more inclined, through their use of social media and their instant connection to an audience, for example, to fight for change?

Orelsan: I think they are. I don’t feel like we’re living in an episode of Black Mirror. The good side of technology will overcome the bad side.

Sebastien Strappazzon: Nowadays, people are much more revolted, because they are much better informed. And this pushes everything towards change.

As a musician, what is the worst or best advice you have ever received?

Orelsan: I guess it is « take everything you can now because it’s not going to last ».

And the best advice?

Orelsan: Surround yourself with people that you can trust. You can’t be in the audience and on stage at the same time.

As a brand owner, what is the worst or best advice you have ever received?

Orelsan: Best advice is start small. Focus on the product.

And the best advice?

Sebastien Strappazzon: Still waiting for it. Anyone care to share?